Dryden was a key influence on men’s fashion in the 20th century. After a creative break of almost 100 years he is back, again catering the most elite fashion to a select clientele.
ABOUT
Ernst Dryden was one of the most important fashion and graphic designers and graphic artists of his generation. If you read his vita today, it is surprising to see how much and how easily Dryden moved in the world. He was active in commercial sectors and was driven from metropolis to metropolis in the indefatigable hunt for trends. The dogma in all of his work can be summed up in one word: elegance.
The meticulous Dryden worked restlessly and uncompromisingly on all the details of his creations so that they ultimately appear elegant, effortless and easy. He not only preached these ideals, but also lived them himself, earning him the title of “the most elegant man who ever lived” from prominent personalities of the day.
Photos © Wolfgang Thaler
LEGACY
Dryden was born on August 3, 1887 to German-Hungarian parents in Vienna. After completing his studies at the Vienna Arts and Craft School, he gained fame as a poster artist in Berlin between 1910 and 1918. Following the First World War, Dryden returned to Vienna and began his career as a fashion designer. He designed for icons of the industry such as Kniže & Comp. men’s fashion and founded his own brand, Hello. In 1926, Dryden moved to Paris to work for the leading German fashion magazine Die Dame. In 1933, he relocated to New York and, after a very successful year 1934, to Hollywood, where he designed costumes for several major film productions and haute couture until his death in 1938.
Dryden was proud, witty, and a raconteur. Respected as a teacher by the younger generation, he was known for his “work and work again” principle. Dryden had a very clear understanding of contemporary fashion and liked to proclaim the rules of his art, often and in a very convincing manner. His maxim was that whoever designed men’s fashion could not be less stylishly dressed himself.
Dryden learned poster art from the masters of his day, among them, such important artists as Gustav Klimt. In 1910, he moved to Berlin, where poster art was in full bloom. Dryden was best known as a fashion expert and his posters had a considerable influence on the fashion world. Just a few years later he could rightly say: “Finally, the elegant Berliners look like my drawings.” In 1915, Dryden was conscripted into the army, served in World War I and received the Iron Cross from Emperor Franz Joseph I for his accomplishments. Dryden moved to Vienna in 1918 after the war.
Soon Dryden returned to his favorite field of activity in Vienna – fashion. From 1921 he worked closely with the men’s outfitter Kniže & Comp. and was instrumental in its rise to become the most elegant men’s clothing brand in Vienna. Together with Fritz Wolff (the owner) and Adolf Loos (the architect), he formed the triumvirate of talents. They worked for such illustrious customers as Empress Elisabeth and the artist Oskar Kokoschka.
Dryden popularized the idea of elegant men’s fashion in Vienna at a time when women’s fashion was preferred in boutiques. This is illustrated by an anecdote. As always, exquisitely dressed Dryden was walking along the Ringstrasse one day when a lady asked him: “Where can you find such elegant suits?” “Nowhere,” Dryden replied, “I designed this one myself.” Through Dryden’s untiring work and innovation, Kniže clothing was soon considered in Vienna to be the ultimate in fashion. Parallel to his work at Kniže, Dryden also established the fashion label Hello, working in a role that would probably be described today as creative director. He not only designed the fashion, but also advertising campaigns, store designs and magazines. With Hello, Dryden succeeded in launching an international brand chosen by customers such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
Dryden’s knowledge of fashion, his ability as an illustrator and his experience in Berlin and Vienna made him the perfect candidate for a key position at Die Dame magazine in Paris. He headed the magazine and designed a wealth of covers and illustrations. Closely connected to the Parisian fashion world, he had access to the design studios of Chanel, Worth and Patou. During these years Dryden further perfected his skills as a designer and fashion connoisseur. In addition to his work at Die Dame, he also designed posters and advertisements for renowned customers such as Bugatti, Cinzano and Vogue.
Dryden was a smash success in New York. He promptly began working for clients like Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s, Marshall Field & Co and Germaine Monteil. Not only can fashion trends clearly be seen in his sketches, but social change as well. For example, the role of women is reflected not only in the fashion, but also in the poses.
Dryden recognized the most important social change that had begun in New York at that time. People wanted to buy fashion prete a porter and no longer from a custom tailor. And often the most popular designs were inspired by movie costumes. Although tremendously successful, Dryden ended his stint in New York after less than a year and headed to Hollywood.
Dryden was one of the many exiles in Hollywood and enjoyed much success there, too. On account of his background and his diligence, he was quickly engaged in many film productions and designed costumes for screen stars like Mae West and Marlene Dietrich.
The numerous difficulties and the enormous time pressure of a film production did not seem to slow down Dryden’s creativity, but rather to spur it on. His costumes graced films such as Lost Horizon, The Garden of Allah, The Adventures of Tom Sawyer, The King Steps Out and The Prisoner of Zenda. These costumes had such a significant impact that they gave rise to an industry of their own. They were adapted for the retail trade and sold in stores such as Saks, Macy’s or Marshall Field’s. Dryden would probably have been able to work successfully in Hollywood for many years if he hadn’t died of a heart attack on March 16, 1938.
SHOP
At Dryden, it is important to us that every item of clothing is as individual as the person who wears it. That is why Dryden does not produce ready-to-wear goods, but exclusively offers one-off, made-to-measure garments, every fabric and every detail of which is carefully selected and hand-tailored as precisely as Dryden would have done it himself.
These exclusive designs are created and executed by Thomas Oláh, a fashion designer entirely according to Dryden’s taste. Similar to Dryden, he works for the film industry and possesses extensive knowledge of fashion history paired with craftsmanship at the highest level.
Designing and crafting these pieces takes time and love. If your interest has been sparked, please contact us. We will send you a proposal for an appointment depending on the waiting list. We are looking forward to designing for you.
CONTACT
Our work originates from our Vienna studio and is by appointment only.
Ernst Dryden
c/o Art&Idea GmbH
Prinz Eugen Strasse 48 /Top3
A-1040 Vienna
Austria